May 13th, 2023

(Days 3&4)

We made it to Whitefish around 10:30 on the 10th and swiftly went to bed. Being in a real bed felt amazing, and I slept well! I was also able to take a real shower before AND after bed. The night before, coming into Glacier Park, was so beautiful. It felt like the mountains came out of nowhere, and once we passed East Glacier, we were completely surrounded. It is incredible how terrifying the mountains looked here after a childhood of frequenting the White Mountains in New Hampshire. They seem much taller than the mountains I used to hike and much more harsh. The tops were so scraggly, with caked-on snow even during the springtime. Looking at them both scared me and enticed me to hike them. Riding the Amtrak through these mountains was also terrific, with cliffs dropping off right past the track, old trestles, and claustrophobic tunnels. Unfortunately, it was dark when we came into Whitefish, so we didn't see the surroundings of where we were staying the first night. 

Train Going Around a Bend in the Mountains
Mountains Coming into Glacier Park

We enjoyed a cup of coffee the following day before heading out for breakfast. The AirBnB my parents had booked was beautiful. It was twice the size of my apartment and had incredible style. After walking through the downtown area and contemplating what to eat, we settled on Loula's Cafe, where we had a traditional American breakfast. After that, we split off, with my mom and I going shopping and my dad doing his own thing. We met some very lovely shopkeepers at a boutique store who were able to outfit my mom with some new clothing articles for the "travel capsule" she is working on. 

For most of the day, we continued to explore the town, even attempting to visit the train museum that took up half of the Amtrak station. Unfortunately, the museum was closed, but we could check out some pretty sweet older transportation vehicles stationed outside, including an old train engine, a retro bus, and a car. We also observed a massive freight train that passed by carrying nothing but tank after tank of some chemical that was not identified, but was flammable. Watching a section of track bow under the weight of each set of wheels was crazy.

Downtown Whitefish Looking Towards the Mountains
Old Great Northern Train
Friendly Deer

We decided to make a home-cooked meal for dinner the first night rather than going out. We stopped at the local market and got the ingredients to grill some steak, potatoes, and green beans. We also got some bean chili to stuff the potatoes with to appease my vegetarian appetite. We walked off our meal with a trek around the neighborhood. We ran into some friendly deer, which we were not accustomed to after growing up around the skittish deer we have in St. Croix. Whitefish was very peaceful, and walking around and seeing what the area offered was enjoyable. We ended the night by going to the Great Northern Bar for drinks and live music before returning to the apartment for bed.

We started the day off the next morning with breakfast at a crepery. I meant to get something more filling but ended up with one of their sweet crepes; it just looked so good! We then got into our rental car for the day and began our exploration of Glacier Park. First, we started at the Hungry Horse Dam, which was massive! Looking at the edge was dizzying, but I was in awe of how large the structure was. It must have been such a feat to accomplish a big project at the time it was built. We then drove to Lake McDonald, where we took what portion of the Going-to-the-Sun Road was open. We had a quick coffee and snack at a swanky timber lodge in a large hotel complex. We then traveled back the way we came to get to another route that brought us deep into untouched land. Here we checked out a mercantile that had an adorable cat I was able to befriend.

Mountains Around Lake McDonald
Hungry Horse Dam
Friendly Cat

The return trip to Whitefish saw more amazing views of the mountains; they are just so breathtaking! Once we returned to Whitefish, we enjoyed Sushi from a place next door to where we were staying. I had a roll that included goat cheese, which tasted so good. We then returned to the apartment for a game of Cribbage before I packed and headed for the train. My parents drove me to the station and waved goodbye as I sat in the window seat. I am now alone on this trip and won't see them for a while since they will be gone when I return to Chicago.

Leaving Whitefish

I am writing this post as I hurtle through the dark mountains on my way to Seattle. I already made a friend sitting across from me who had questions about the train and discussed the reason for our trips. I also met a kid who seemed to be a big fan of me. He was riding on the lower area of the train but came up the stairs to point at me and said, "I know what you are; you have a big backpack, so you're a hiker!" I explained to him that I was actually taking the train around the country, but he insisted that I hiked, so I told him I used to quite a lot when I was younger. He then showed me his truck collection before I returned to my seat.

Reflecting on my time in Whitefish and my conversations with my dad, my wonder about the built environment continues solidifying. Looking at the Hungry Horse Dam amazed me how we could build something that completely changes the natural flow of things. Watching the massive freight train go by and thinking about our vast rail network captivates me, even if a majority of it mostly abandoned or serves only freight rail. Even looking at the brick in the building across from where we were staying makes you wonder about how much time and effort was put into the world around us; those bricks had to be hauled in by rail after their creation and were then carefully stacked to become a building which has most likely seen many years of use across generations. So you can imagine how I feel trying to wrap my mind around the built environment of Chicago. Nothing will ever compare to nature, however. The colossal mountains I saw these past two days took millions of years to carve out and have remained unchallenged in their stature since before we arrived. 

I have about 12 hours until I get to Seattle, but I will likely post this blog when I get service tomorrow. So I will leave it here and publish my adventure in Seattle in a few days.

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